Twelve countries later, the Amalfi Coast is still the most beautiful place I've ever visited. With jaw-dropping views, rugged coastlines, colorful villages, and that unmistakable Italian dolce vita, it’s a destination that truly lives up to the hype. In this Positano and Amalfi Coast travel guide, I'll cover everything you need to know to plan an unforgettable trip, from where to stay and what to do to my favorite restaurants along the coast.
Amalfi Coast at a Glance
The Amalfi Coast stretches along the southern edge of Italy's Sorrento Peninsula, where dramatic cliffs meet the deep blue waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The coastline is dotted with colorful villages, lemon groves, hidden beaches, beautiful hotels, and some seriously spectacular restaurants.
While Positano is probably the most recognizable town, there's much more to the Amalfi Coast than its most famous postcard view. Amalfi, Ravello, Praiano, Atrani, and the smaller coastal towns each have their own character, and part of the fun is deciding which ones you want to explore.
Best Time to Visit
I visited in October on my last trip and am currently planning a September visit, so clearly I have a favorite time of year. Personally, I love visiting when the weather is still beautiful but the crowds have started to thin out, which means shorter lines for the ferries, gelato, and other important business.
If you have some flexibility, I'd choose late spring or early fall. You'll get a great balance of warm weather and fewer crowds, while summer is ideal if your priority is long, sunny days spent by the water. Just keep in mind that July and August are the busiest months on the Amalfi Coast, so you'll be dealing with larger crowds, longer waits, and higher prices.
How to Get to the Amalfi Coast
For most travelers, the easiest way to reach the Amalfi Coast is via Naples.
From Naples, you can arrange a private transfer, take public transportation, or combine the train with a ferry depending on the time of year and where you're staying. On my last trip, I took the high-speed train from Rome to Naples, then a car service from the train station in Naples to Positano.
I highly recommend letting a local do the driving rather than renting a car. The roads are steep, winding, and narrow, and cars often have to back up to let oncoming traffic pass. What might look like a relatively short drive on a map can take much longer than you'd expect, especially during the busy summer months. Because of this, it's nice to let a local do the driving so you can sit back and enjoy the views.
Another option is to arrive via Sorrento, particularly if you're combining the Amalfi Coast with a trip to Capri or elsewhere in the region.
If you're traveling with luggage, I highly recommend planning your transportation before you arrive. The coast's winding roads, steep staircases, and busy summer traffic can make an improvised arrival much more stressful than you'd expect.
Once you've arrived, you can use the ferry system to get from town to town along the Amalfi Coast and even to Capri for a day trip, overnight stay, or longer visit.
Where to Stay Along the Amalfi Coast
The biggest question people inevitably run into is: where should I stay? If it's your first visit to the Amalfi Coast, you can't go wrong with the two classics, Positano and Amalfi.
Staying in Positano
Stay in Positano if you want the quintessential Amalfi Coast experience: dramatic views, beautiful hotels, upscale shopping, excellent restaurants, and easy ferry access to other towns along the coast. It's glamorous, lively, and undeniably beautiful. Just keep in mind that Positano is built into a cliff, so the town itself is very steep. Depending on where you stay, the walk from the beach to your hotel may feel more like a Stairmaster workout than a vacation!
Hotel recommendations in Positano include Hotel Palazzo Murat, Le Sirenuse, and Hotel Poseidon.
Amalfi as Your Home Base
Stay in Amalfi if you're looking for something a little more relaxed, with a stronger sense of history and a town that's easier to navigate on foot. Amalfi also makes an excellent base for exploring Ravello, which sits high above the town, and has excellent ferry access, beautiful hotels, and plenty of restaurants.
Great hotels in Amalfi include Monastero Santa Rosa Hotel & Spa, Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel, and Santa Caterina Hotel.
Other Options
As you probably know, both Positano and Amalfi are on the expensive side. If you're looking for something more budget-friendly, consider nearby towns like Sorrento, Vico Equense, or Maiori. Just make sure to check transportation options carefully and, if you plan to rely on ferries, confirm that your destination has an active ferry port during your visit.
Things to do on the Amalfi Coast
There’s no shortage of ways to experience the Amalfi Coast, whether you want to spend your days exploring sun-drenched towns, relaxing by the water, or getting out into the landscape. While it’s tempting to fill your itinerary, some of the best moments here come from slowing down and simply enjoying the scenery. Here are a few of my favorite ways to experience the coast.
Spend a Day at the Beach
The Amalfi Coast isn't known for huge sandy beaches. Instead, you'll find small coves, rocky stretches of coastline, and beautiful beach clubs built into the cliffs. Positano, Amalfi, and Praiano all have popular options, although I'd recommend booking ahead if you have your heart set on a particular beach club.
A beach day is also a great way to build some downtime into your itinerary. After a few days of climbing stairs and exploring towns, there's something especially nice about spending an afternoon doing absolutely nothing but swimming, sunbathing, and taking in the view.
Take a Day Trip to Ravello or Capri
If you have extra time in your itinerary, both Ravello and Capri make wonderful day trips, although they offer very different experiences.
Perched high above the coast, Ravello is known for its peaceful atmosphere, beautiful gardens, historic villas, and spectacular views. It's a wonderful choice if you want to escape some of the busier coastal towns for an afternoon.
Capri, meanwhile, is glamorous and lively, with boutiques, restaurants, dramatic coastal scenery, and plenty to explore. If you're visiting for the first time, I'd recommend giving yourself as much time as possible on the island rather than trying to squeeze everything into a few rushed hours.
Here is my full guide to visiting Capri if you're considering adding it to your itinerary.
Hike the Path of the Gods
For travelers who want to experience the landscape beyond the towns, the Path of the Gods is one of the Amalfi Coast's most scenic hikes. The trail stretches about 4 miles from Agerola to the hillside village of Nocelle and takes roughly 2 to 3 hours. It's considered moderate, with some rocky sections and stairs, so comfortable shoes are essential.
I recommend ending in Nocelle and taking a bus or taxi back toward Positano rather than making the steep descent on foot. The hike is as much about the views as the trail itself, so take your time and enjoy the scenery along the way.
Explore the Coast by Boat
One of the best ways to appreciate the Amalfi Coast is from the water. A boat trip gives you a completely different perspective of the colorful towns and dramatic cliffs, and it's a wonderful way to reach secluded swimming spots that aren't accessible by land.
You can book a private boat for a more leisurely experience or simply take the ferry between towns and enjoy the views along the way. Either way, seeing the coast from the water is one of those experiences I'd make a priority on a first visit.
And don't feel like you need to pack every hour of your trip with activities. One of the best things you can do on the Amalfi Coast is leave some time to wander, enjoy a leisurely meal, and enjoy the view.
Speaking of meals...
Where to Eat in Positano and on the Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi Coast is one of those destinations where eating is very much part of the experience. With the Tyrrhenian Sea right outside your door, seafood naturally plays a starring role, but the region's cuisine goes far beyond fresh fish. You'll find handmade pasta, simple traditional Italian dishes, locally grown vegetables, and plenty of lemon-forward specialties inspired by the coast's famous lemon groves. Some meals are elegant and elaborate, while others are wonderfully simple: a plate of pasta, a glass of wine, and a table overlooking the water.
I have two favorite restaurants in Positano: Ristorante Max, pictured above, and Bruno. Both are excellent, but they offer very different experiences. Ristorante Max is a beautiful, upscale restaurant filled with art, while Bruno is more casual and warm, with a lovely terrace overlooking the coastline. If you're planning a trip to Positano, I'd put both on your list.
Ristorante Max
Address: P.za dei Mulini, 22, 84017 Positano SA, Italy
Bruno
Address: Via Cristoforo Colombo, 157, 84017 Positano SA, Italy
Although you don't often associate the Amalfi Coast with the region's best pastries, Pasticceria Sal De Riso in Minori shouldn't be missed. The pastry shop was even featured on an episode of Stanley Tucci's Searching for Italy. Once there, don't miss their famous Delizia al Limone, a soft sponge cake dome soaked in limoncello and coated in rich lemon custard and cream.
Pasticceria Sal De Riso
Address: Via Roma, 80, 84010 Minori SA, Italy
For a special meal with a beautiful view in Amalfi, consider Ristorante Dei Cappuccini. Located inside the historic Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel, the restaurant sits high above Amalfi with beautiful views overlooking the town, harbor, and bay.
The menu puts a modern spin on traditional Amalfi Coast cuisine, with fresh seafood and local ingredients. If you're looking for a memorable dinner with a beautiful setting, I'd put Ristorante Dei Cappuccini high on your list.
Ristorante Dei Cappuccini
Address: V. Annunziatella, 46, 84011 Amalfi SA, Italy
Positano and the Amalfi Coast: Final Thoughts
Twelve countries later, the Amalfi Coast remains the most beautiful place I've ever visited. I think part of what makes it so special is that the experience is about more than simply checking destinations off a list. Of course, you'll want to see Positano, wander through Amalfi, make time for Ravello, and get out on the water if you can. But some of my favorite memories came from the moments in between: lingering over a leisurely meal overlooking the sea, browsing the many shops for unique souvenirs, and taking in the coastline from a boat.
My biggest piece of advice is to give yourself enough time to slow down and enjoy it. The Amalfi Coast can be busy, expensive, and occasionally chaotic, but that's all part of its charm. You don't need to see absolutely everything. Pick a few places you really want to experience, leave some room in your itinerary to explore spontaneously, and give yourself time to simply enjoy the dolce vita.
If you're planning your first trip, I hope this guide helps you experience some of what makes the Amalfi Coast so unforgettable. And if you discover a hidden gem or have a favorite spot of your own, I'd love to hear about it in the comments.
Amalfi Coast Travel Resources
Planning your trip? Here are the hotels, restaurants, and destinations mentioned throughout this guide, all in one place.
Hotels
Positano
Amalfi
Restaurants & Food
Positano
Minori
Amalfi
